So what did happen to the Rapa Nui's belief in the Moai and the rule of the Ariki Mau, the king and spiritual leader. The reason for this change is still speculation, but archeologists have put forward the theory that human activity, and over population led to gradual deforestation and the extinction of natural resources which severely weakened the Rapa Nui civilization. This may also have affected the ability of the king and spiritual leader to rule the island. The dramatic change from the Rapa Nui's old culture to the Birdman Cult happened in the early 1700's and lasted about 150 years. Now the Rapa Nui followed their new god- Make Make
The ceremonial site of this new cult was centred in Orongo, which was only a two hour hike from Hanga Roa where I was staying. I decided to hike there and check out this place for myself. Starting along the coastline the hike took me uphill through a forested area to the amazing Rano Kau volcano. Some beautiful flowers along the way.
Rano Kau Volcano
For me, the volcanic caldera of Rano Kau was the most impressive geological feature in all of the Easter Islands. Often called a crater, it is actually a caldera. A caldera forms when large volumes of magma are erupted over a short time and structural support for the crust above the magma chamber is lost. The ground surface then collapses downward into the partially emptied magma chamber, leaving a massive depression at the surface. The Rano Kau caldera is more than a kilometer in diameter and forms a spectacular natural amphitheater that’s about 200 meters deep and frames a large freshwater lake, which was once one of the main sources of fresh water for the Rapa Nui people.
Orongo
Is a stone village and ceremonial centre at the southwestern tip of the Rano Kau caldera. It consists of a collection of low, sod-covered, windowless, round-walled buildings with very low doors. Below Orongo on one side a 300-meter barren cliff face drops down to the ocean; on the other, a more-gentle but still very steep grassy slope leads down to a freshwater marsh inside the high caldera.
The Tangata Manu or Birdman Ceremony
Each spring, the whole island awaited the arrival of a sea bird called the Sooty Tern, which nested in the motus (islets) just below Orongo. Once it arrived, the clans that would be competing in the Birdman competition would begin arriving in Orongo. The main representatives of each clan settled into their homes, for as long as the ceremony lasted, which was around a month. The photo below is of Moto Nui the main islet where the Sooty Tern nested and also the focus of the competition.
The Competition
The ritual of the "Bird Man" cult was this competition to collect the first egg of the Sooty Tern. This took place starting from Motu Nui islet where the Hopu (representatives from each clan) waited for the Sooty Tern to lay their first eggs of the season. The Hopu who seized the first egg, raced to swim back to Easter Island, climbed the cliffs to Orongo and presented the egg to their sponsor in front of the judges at Orongo - was declared the winner. This gave their sponsor the title of Tangata Manu and great power on the island for a year. Many Hopu were killed by sharks or by falling. The winning clan gained certain rights including the collecting of eggs and young birds from the islets.
Orongo has numerous petroglyphs, mainly of tangata manu (birdmen) which may have been carved to commemorate some of the winners of this race.
In my last blog - the end of the Rapa Nui.
Next post from this trip.
